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The Lowdown on Semi Permanent Eyebrows

Updated: Aug 2, 2022

A lot of you have been asking about semi-permanent brows. The ones I do in the salon are Phibrows, Magic shading and Combination brows. There is a ton on info out there so I've put together a comprehensive version where all your questions will be answered:

I will explain:

  • What the different treatments are called.

  • How they each work

  • How to look after them.

  • Who suits what

  • Pre and aftercare instructions.

  • patch testing and consultation

  • expectations


Lets talk Phibrows first. This is the most common as it the most realistic which gives the illusion of real like hairs. The results of Phibrows is perfectly natural looking brows. However, depending on skin type this may not suit you. if you have oily skin, Phibrows can become blurred when healed.

Other names include microstroking, micropigmentation, eyebrow feathering, eyebrow embroidery and 3D brows.

The Phibrows tool looks like a blade, but is actually full of tiny little needles that make small cuts in your skin. The cuts looks a lot like actual strands of hair, which help you create fuller and more natural-looking brows The blade is dipped into pigment and then used to make a fine cut in the skin. This is where the pigment sits.

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Magic Shading

Shading is the best treatment for individuals who have oily skin and if you are a gym bunny. Other names for Shading are Ombre Brows. This treatment fills in sparse areas of the brow.

What's the difference between microblading and shading you ask? Whilst microblading involves creating hair like strokes, shading uses a machine to create pixelated dots that creates a brow that looks much like tint or henna.

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Combination brows

Combo brows is a combination of two forms of semi-permanent techniques: microblading and powder brows (shading). Microblading hair-strokes are placed with a manual tool around the border of the brow to give the brow a natural look. This technique is great for those who have sparse eyebrows, little to no hair, or those who simply want to add definition to their eyebrows and arch. Combo Brows allow us to create an illusion of eyebrows hairs and soft powder that resembles a natural makeup look. The powder effect is applied to the body of the brow using a permanent makeup device to give the brow its fullness.

Combo brows are also known as hybrid brows

Combo brows are a great solution for covering up an old tattoo brow. Microblading only is not a good choice for covering an old brow as it can look blurry.

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THE PROCESS with all the semi-permanent eyebrow treatments:

There are two sessions involved with a complimentary third session.

Session one can take approximately 3 hours. This is where the shape and colour is determined and the treatment is carried out. If you were to leave your brows after session one, they would still look ok but you would not see the full benefit of your brows.

4 weeks later you will come in for session two, this is your touch up, which will take approximately 2 hours. Here we fill out the areas of the brow that are faded. During your touch up, I will fill in missing hairs, add or make hairs longer or just achieve a darker colour.

The third is complimentary and takes about half an hour 3 weeks later whereby I check your brows to see how your brows have healed and all is good.

Things to expect during the healing:

  • It takes about 7 to 10 days to heal.

  • it is normal for the eyebrows to look patchy whilst healing.

  • If the brows have disappeared don't be alarmed as it takes 4 weeks for the pigment to resurface to the skin.

  • When you first get them done, they may seem big and dark. Keep in mind that the pigment will reduce 2 shades lighter and it will also reduce in size.

Your new eyebrows will go through several phases during the healing cycle. True reflection of healed colour can only be assessed 3-4 weeks after treatment. Touch-ups and/or correction of the shape/design is recommended at least 4 weeks after initial treatment. It will go from too dark, to too light, to just right! Immediately after the procedure, the pigment will appear very sharp and dark. This is because the pigment is still seating on top of your skin and has not yet settled in completely. The colour of the pigment will soften gradually (do not be alarmed if you see some pigment on the cotton swab as this is excess pigment and/or body fluid that is naturally exiting your skin). Once the healing of the skin starts taking place it will look like dandruff flakes or dry skin. This might give you the impression that the colour pigment is fading too quickly. However, this is just superficial colour and dry skin being naturally removed from your eyebrows. Your eyebrows will be the lightest tones during days 5-12 because the colour is absorbed in the deeper layers of the skin. Later skin cells push it back to the upper layers. Once the healing is completed, you will enjoy a pair of beautiful, new, natural looking eyebrows.

After the treatment is complete I have done my job, 70% of the work is now on you. Follow strict after care instructions I give as this will determine the healing. The instructions given will depend on the type of skin you have.


Microblading has improved in pigment and technique in the last 5 years. You remember the one ones that looked like sharpie brows? Well that is no more. Those brows were tattoo brows which go deep into the third layer of the skin (dermis). Microblading now just goes under the surface of the skin given it that natural look. When these fade, they will just disappear, hence why they are called semi permanent.

Are there any pre-existing conditions that interfere when considering semi-permanent brows?

  • • Pregnancy • Breastfeeding (treatment is possible, though anaesthetic will not be possible) • On keloids or if you have tendency to keloid, birthmarks or moles. • Diabetic if the person is not under medical supervision. • Serious diseases such as cancer, epilepsy, autoimmune disorders (doctor's note is required) • Circulatory disorders (doctor's note is required) • Any bleeding disorders (doctor's note is required) • If any skin diseases symptoms or irritation appears on the area. • You've recently had Botox or Disport treatment (must wait 2 months) • Old PMU • You have a broken capillary in the eyebrows area • If you have a sunburn. • After waxing (must wait 3 days) • After chemical peels (must wait two weeks

  • Have healing disorders, on blood thinners, uncontrolled high blood pressure or had mitral valve Disorder.

  • Those on any skin medication such as Roaccutane, steroids which thin and oversensitive the skin.

  • AHA’s (lactic, glycolic, citric, retinoic and tartaric acids) or any OTC creams and lotions for tone correcting, anti-aging, exfoliating, fading can discolor your permanent makeup.

  • Coumadin: Amount of bleeding and response to topical epinephrine will determine coverage per appointment. If excessive bleeding occurs, extra appointments may be necessary for desired outcome or procedure may not be effective.

  • Cancers/Chemotherapy: Doctor’s clearance may be necessary.

  • Juvederm or other “fillers” near your eyebrows in a past 4 weeks.

  • Shingles (varicella): If you have shingles on your face, wait several months to get permanent makeup.

  • Eyelift or blepharoplasty: Wait about 3 months.

  • Pinkeye: As soon as their infection has cleared, medication completed.

Is there anything I need to do to prepare for my service?

If you have an ideal shape or colour in mind, bring those reference photos with you to your appointment. You may also fill in your eyebrows as you normally would to share your desired outcome. If you regularly get your eyebrows waxed or threaded, please do so 72 hours before your service.

• Do not drink coffee, alcohol or energizing drinks on the day of treatment. • Do not take Aspirin, Niacin, Vitamin E or Ibuprofen 72 hours before treatment. • Do not take omega3 (fish oil) 1 week before treatment. • Do not tan or have intense sun exposure 3 days before treatment. It is highly advised that you avoid sun and tanning bed exposure for 30 days before and after your treatment. If you show up for your appointment with a recent tan or sunburn, you will be asked to reschedule resulting in loss of deposit. Excessive sun exposure before and/or after your treatment may cause the eyebrows to fade into a lighter ashy hue. • No chemical peels, dermabrasion, laser or any other intense treatments 2 weeks before treatment. Shower and fix your hair as you need to take extra care not to get your brows wet for several days. • Skin should be healthy, non-irritated, and blemish-free. I cannot do the treatment over spots or Moles.

A Typical Semi-permanent brow treatment…

Step 1.... Before any treatment a patch test is carried out to determine whether you are suitable for the procedure. When all is ok, you can commence treatment after 48 hours. A consultation will take place where we discuss what your preferences are, expectations and any questions you may have. Step 2.... At your appointment your brows are shaped according to your facial features and structure. You will then determine whether or not you like the shape and if it needs to be tweeked to the way you like it, it will be done at this stage. It will be your brows the way you like them. This can be a lengthy process as I will have you laying down and upright to make sure your brows work with your facial expressions and that you are satisfied with the thickness, length, shape and overall look of your brows.

Step 3.... Here we choose the colour of your brows and begin the process.

For the Phibrows: Initial strokes are placed during the first pass, then a numbing cream is applied to reduce any discomfort. Pigment is worked into each stroke to define the brow. We keep filling in the stroke until we get the desired colour. We then check for any adjustments you would like to make. A pigment mask is then applied to set into the strokes made and then the area is cleaned. For the Magic Shading

Numbing cream is applied after we draw your shape. Pigment is worked into machine which softly applies the shading to your skin until we get the perfect shade.

Step 4...

When the service is complete, I will apply healing balm. You will continue to use this balm with the aftercare that is given.

For clients who are sensitive I would advise to get lanolin cream from the link as this heals the brows without drying them.

I cannot guarantee your end result! Please read below. Do you have any of the following… Very oily skin? Enlarged pores on your forehead/face or acne-prone skin? Skin that's very sensitive or reactive? Eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, or melasma? Really thick, dark, coarse eyebrow hair? If you answered yes to any of these – unfortunately, microblading will not last very long on your skin, and details may fade faster. Please keep this in mind when deciding to get microbladed. You may need additional appointments and/or more frequent touch-ups. A shaded brow may last longer and give better results, but results cannot be guaranteed! Touching up other artists work

This can only be done depending on what residue is left.

If the pigment is too dark or heavy I would advise removal.

Top ups are only for my previous clients. If you do require a top up with other artists work, I cannot guarantee the best results. Most need to be colour corrected as different pigments and styles are used.


DAY OF TREATMENT The best thing to do is to not do too much!Right after the treatment – Be Gentle, Try not to touch them with your hands 1 hour After Treatment Gently wipe your brow with the special wipe I give you to remove all the lymph and previously applied balm. Apply a very thin layer of after care with the end of the tool i give you, avoid using your fingers. You can buy more aftercare here. For the rest of the day of treatment ​ Repeat the above process 3-5 times a day to keep the wound clean and avoid scab formation. After the last clean of the day, apply the Phi Patch which will protect your brows when you are asleep. ​ FIRST SEVEN DAYS ​ ​It is really simple, No Water, No sweat, No Sun for 7 days!

  • Avoid soaking or wetting your eyebrows in the shower and when washing your face.